墨西哥 Cozumel 潜水记

2004年5月9日至13日


文/图 于弋

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  每一次潜水之后我都不写潜水日记,而“语言具有欺骗性”则是我惯用的搪塞之辞。但现在,我决定说服自己试着写一写我最近前往柯祖梅尔的潜水经历。

  一向自诩中文不错,可现在却提笔无言,就像在这边
(注:美国)过的生活一样,不知不觉中你疏忽了自己,疏远了那些你最亲近的东西,英文写得费劲儿,中文写了自己都看不下去,所以呢,利用上班时间用英文记了个流水帐,读了无味,不读也不可惜,看看照片吧,还是………..

  在此衷心感谢 more-or-less and CY. 没有你们的帮助和督促,我就不会在这了…谢了!

  柯祖梅尔是墨西哥的一个小岛。被誉为北美最有价值的潜水点,典型的加勒比风情的潜水点。这里的峭壁潜也非常著名。柯祖梅尔有几十个潜点,从初级到专业级都有。这里以放流潜为主。每潜都由潜水长带领。大部分时间不用打脚蹼,飞就行了(除非你想停下来)。能见度号称30米. 水温一年四季在25度左右,所以穿3毫米的湿式潜服足矣。

  我们五月九日至十三日在柯祖梅尔。此时并不是柯祖梅尔的最佳潜水季节,如果在冬季(三月之前)来此,或许有更多的机会看到大家伙。我们的航班抵达的时候已经临近傍晚了,欢迎我们的是潮湿的空气。顺利通过了移民局和海关的检查,我们在临海的Vista Del Mar 饭店住下,饭店与市区主广场隔着三个街区。 房间不大却也简单,舒适,干净,而且大海就在眼前……。第一天剩余的时间,我们就在充斥着熙熙攘攘的行人和音乐的街上散步,试着寻找一家潜水店(来之前我们曾用电子邮件与不少潜水店沟通过,但一直没有敲定)。我们最终确定了“深蓝”俱乐部。我猜想之所以确定这家店是因为那时我们都累了,而且Alex喜欢店老板Matt的英国口音,还有他的两条大狗………………。
  潜水是从星期一开始的。由于我们上一次潜水已经是十个月以前的事情了,我们决定做一次岸潜热身.............非常出色的浅礁,密密匝匝的鱼群,还有长得像长腿蜘蛛一样的箭蟹(Arrow Crab)。

第1天第1潜 —— Santa Rosa峭壁
(最大深度 26.5M ,水下时间37分钟)

  这里是柯祖梅尔人气很旺的一个潜水点。峭壁从15M深处开始,垂降到无底的幽深!一股快速的海流让我们沿着峭壁“飞”了起来。大量的海绵,巨大的石珊瑚悬岩以及许多的洞穴和狭窄的沟壑。可以看到大的神仙鱼、石斑鱼和龙虾...........。Peblo 是我们的潜水长,他非常风趣,甚至在水下你都能被他逗乐。他连说带唱...........,我可说的是在水下,你不必用眼睛找他,一听就能知道他在哪儿!简直是不可思议.............。


第1天第2潜 —— Tormentos Shallow
(19M, 49 分钟)

  短暂休息之后我们向 Tormentos 回返。对第二潜来说这里相当不错。色彩斑斓的珊瑚、海绵和海扇。我们遇到一群笛鲷(SNAPPERS),在沙地上看到鹰鳐,许多的龙虾和一条五颜六色的TOUT鱼(左面照片上的就是被Peblo 敲出来的那条可怜的TOUT)。

第2天第1潜 —— Cedral Wall
(24.7M, 40分钟)
  星期二早晨9:30,深蓝俱乐部在市中心码头接我们。我们驶向Paso Del Cedral。湛蓝的天空,只有几朵像苞米花似浮云将阴影投放在水晶般清澈的海面上,百无聊赖的鱼群窜来窜去,汽船的马达声仿佛也被风带远了,空气又湿又软,一切都美得让人心疼 …

  Paso Del Cedral 一直以来就是水下摄影师的集散地,这缘于丰富的水下生物和斑斓的色彩。沿着峭壁的海流有点猛,于是我们停止打脚蹼,全身放松,随波逐流。我们看到几只Hawkbill海龟。它们很友善,当你与它们靠得非常近的时候它们才会感到窘迫,然后转身跑 了.........。这次还是Peblo 作我们的导潜,看来昨天我们给的小费让他感到心满意足,他答应帮我们寻找鲨鱼:“鲨鱼是我的朋友”,不幸的是,他没能找到他的朋友,而船上的另外一组却看到了两条!


第2天第2潜 —— Yucab
(17.7M, 52 分钟)


  只能用一个形容词来形容——Yucab ——美丽,纯粹的美丽。能见度达40米。急速的海流“荡起”巨大的海葵,海葵像醉了似的。有一对儿白点管口鱼, 在我们的照相机前羞怯难当。那奇形怪状的TRUNK鱼在吹着什么?还有鹿角珊瑚和黄色海百合。

 

 

 


第3天第1潜 —— Columbia Deep (30M, 37 分钟)
  第三天我们从Columbia Deep开始。那里有令人为之悚然的沟壑。 珊瑚礁构造非常好,大量的珊瑚柱,洞穴,隧道和沙丘。(参见more-or-less之“华山论剑”水下篇。此处略去形容词若干)。

  Sandro是我们第三天的潜水长。他是个很酷的家伙,皮肤黝黑,身材健硕,也是个了不起的潜水员,在柯祖梅尔潜水已经十一年了,看他穿行沟壑和洞穴的样子就像在自家的后花园散步。他不善言辞,但笑起来却非常迷人....快要结束时,我们看到了一对大型的鳐鱼,很像电影《海底总动员》中的那部“校车”,而实际上,它充其量是一部三轮车,而且也只有一名乘客.......。

 

第3天第2潜 —— Paso Del Cedral (浅水域) (17.5M,51分钟)
  “鲨鱼!鲨鱼!” Alex无法吸引我的注意, 所以他开始大喊大叫,我转过身却什么都没看见… “哪儿呢?” 我跟着Sandro,逆着流使劲拍打脚蹼… “她在这儿!”她静静地躲在一块悬礁下面,个头不算大,身长约2-2.5M.。海流将我推向那只护士鲨,被推着的我无法控制自己的姿势,“噢.....” 我意识到我离得太近了........,相片没拍好,不过还有见到她的机会。


第3天第3潜 —— Paradise Reef (17M, 40分钟)
  午后小睡之后,我们又出发了,做我们的最后一程的潜水——黄昏潜。黄昏潜定于下午五时,然后到沙滩上休息看日落,待天黑后,接一个夜潜。
  有些潜水者是纯粹的新手,一个一直放风筝,还有一个差点把我的调节器踢飞了。看到了一条裸胸鳗和一条巨大黑色石斑算是补偿。


第3天第4潜——夜潜 Paradise reef
(11M, 43分钟)

  我们的夜潜地点仍然是“天堂礁”。当我看到附近还有其它潜船的时候(竟有7—8条之多!),马上意识到这一潜不会太好。 你甚至都不用带手电,我们不时会撞到其他潜水者,不过却看到不少的龙虾,石头蟹和一条章鱼,小章鱼,只有我的手掌那么大,可它居然会变色,从绿色变成兰色,再变成黄色,最后变成透明色......,始终无法从我们这里逃脱。


第4天 —— 玛雅遗址(Maya Ruin)

  
在柯祖梅尔的最后一天我们俩租了一辆敞篷两门吉普车。绕岛转了一圈。享受了无尽的海滩和美味墨西哥海鲜,绕路看了玛雅文化遗址,玛雅金字塔......................还被超大蜥蜴吓了一跳。两门敞篷不是为了扮酷,只是为了省钱,结果晒个半死,草草收兵,找到机场睡觉了…   

 

  好了,草草收笔,我也要睡了。谢谢捧场。欢迎提问,但我不能保证回答................。

  祝大家潜水愉快。

[ 编者有言:于弋原本没有写作的计划,最后,终于在 More-Or-Less 的一再鼓励和支持并且许诺能将她写的英文译成中文后,才使得大家能一睹这篇美文。于弋的原创文字收录于后。]

"Language can be deceiving" that has always been my excuses of not write anything after a dive trip. But … here I am, writing a review for my last dive trip to Cozumel …
一向自诩中文不错,可现在却提笔无言,就像在这边国的生活一样,不知不觉中你疏忽了自己,疏远了哪些你最亲近的东西,英文写的费劲儿,中文写了自己都看不下去,所以呢,利用上班时间英文记了个流水帐,读了无味,不读也不可惜,看看照片吧,还是。。。

Cozumel 是墨西哥的一个小岛。被誉为北美最值(best value)的潜水点。Typical Caribbean dive, 这里的wall dive也非常著名。Cozumel有几十个潜点,从na?ve到expert, 这里已drifting dive 为主。每潜都由divemaster带领。大部分时间不用打脚蹼,飞就行了 (除非你想停下来)。 水温一年四季在80F左右。3mm wetsuit will do…
We went to Cozumel May 9-13. It was not the best season in Cozumel; we would have better chance to see large animals if we had came during the winter season (before March). The flight arrived in the late afternoon, we walked into the welcoming humidity and passed easily through immigration and got the green light at customs. We settled at Hotel Vista Del Mar (the view of the Ocean) on the ocean front drive, 3 blocks away from the main plaza. The hotel room was cozy but nice and clean with the ocean right in front of our eyes…we spend the rest of the 1st day wandering on the streets (full of people and music) tried to find a dive shop (we had been e-mailing with some dive shops, but couldn't make up our mind until we talked to a real person). We finally settled with Deep Blue, I guess we were tired at that moment and Alex liked Matt, the owner’s British accent besides he has 2 big dogs …

We started diving Monday morning, since our last dive was 10 month ago. We deiced to make a refresh shore dive… wonderful shallow reef and tons of fishes…big arrow crabs

D1.01 -Santa Rosa Wall. (Max.depth 87’ bottom time 37min.)
A very popular site in Cozumel. The wall starts at 50 feet and drops straight into the deep! a very swift current "fly" us along the wall. Immense sponges, huge overhangs of stony coral and lots of caves and swim through tunnels. We saw big angel fish, groupers and lobsters… Peblo was our divemaster, he was such a funny guy, he even makes you laugh under the water … and he talks… he sings too, I mean under the water, you don't need to look for him, you HEAR him! He is just incredible …

D1.02 -Tormentos Shallow. (61 feet, 49 min.)
We headed back to Tormentos after a short break. It is a great place for 2nd dive. Rich colorful corals, sponges and seafans. we met a school of snapper … sting ray at the sandy bottom, lots of lobsters and a splendid tout fish. (the picture on the left shows the poor tout fish who got knocked out by Peblo)

D2.01 Cedral Wall: (81 feet, 40 mins)
Tuesday morning, Deep Blue picked us up at the downtown pier at 9:30am. We headed out to Paso Del Cedral. A perfect blue sky with a few popcorn clouds dropping shadow on the crystal clear water … what else you could have dreamed in your life?
Paso Del Cedral has been very popular with UW photographers, because of the rich marine lives and the splendid color. The current was a little strong along the wall; we stopped kicking just relaxed and enjoyed the ride… we saw a couple of hawkbill turtles, they are big and friendly, you can get really close before they get annoyed and turned away …
We had Peblo as our divemaster again, since we tipped so well yesterday, he promised us to find shark for us…"shark is my friend" but unfortunately he didn't find his friend while the other group on the boat saw 2!

D2.02 Yucab: (58feet, 52 mins)
Only one word for Yucab- "beautiful" pure beautiful…the visibility was 100 feet ..swift current waves the giant anemone like drunk, a pair of white spotted filefish were shy in front of the camera … what was the odd-shaped trunk fish blowing at? 鹿角珊瑚和黄色鸡毛草。

D3.01 Columbia Deep (98 feet, 37 min.)
The 3rd day we started at Columbia Deep. Awesome swim throughs. The coral formations were very impressive. massive coral pillars, caves, tunnels and sand dunes…(参见more-or-less之 华山论剑 水下篇。此处略去形容词N000个)。Sandro was our divemaster for the 3rd day; he is a cool guy, dark and strong … a great diver too, he has been diving in Cozumel for 11 years, watching him swimming through tunnels and caves just like watching someone wandering in his own back yard… he doesn't talk very much, but has beautiful smile…
.. We saw a pair of big rays at the end of the dive, like the "school bus" in the movie "Finding Nemo" well, actually it is a 3-wheel cart with only one passenger…

D3.02 Paso Del Cedral (shallow) (57 feet, 51 min.)
"Shark! Shark!" Alex could not get my attention, so he started yelling … I turned around but only saw nothing … "where?" I followed his Sandro's lead, kicking hard again the current… "Here she is!" Hiding under a overhanging … she lies there quietly … she is not big, about 7-8 feet… I could not control my position while the current pushing me towards the nurse shark, "woooo…" I knew I was a little too close … didn't get a good shot, but I will see her again …

D3.03 Paradise Reef (56 feet, 40 mins)
after a nap we headed out again for our last dive trip –twilight.
twilight 是一个dive 在下午5时,然后到沙滩上休息看日落,待天黑后,接一个夜潜。
Some of the divers were new to diving. 一个一直放风筝, and another tried to kick my reg out. Saw four a big moray eel and a black grouper to make up for that.

D3.04 Night dive at Paradise reef (43 feet, 43 mins)
we did the night dive at paradise again. I knew it won't be a great one as soon as I saw all the other boats … there are 7-8 of them! U don't even need a flash light down there … we kept run into others … but we saw lots of lobsters, stone crabs and a octopus, a small one, size of my palm …it changed its color from green to blue to yellow to transparent… still can not escape from us

D4 Maya Ruin
我们最后一天租了一辆敞篷两门吉普车。绕岛一周转了一圈。Endless beach and wonderful food, 我们绕路看了玛雅文化遗址。Maya pyramid 。。。还被超大lizard 吓了一跳。 两门敞篷不是为了扮酷,只是为了省钱,结果晒个半死,草草收兵,找到机场睡觉了…

好了草草收笔,我也要睡了。谢谢捧场。 欢迎提问,但我不能保证回答。。。
祝大家happy diving


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